The Ranch - Guerrero, Mexico
For the last two Christmas’s Amy and I have gone down to Trancones, Mexico about 45 minutes north of Zijuatenejo/Ixtapa. It is a super mellow little village that has lots of little beach bungalows. We’ve been staying at the Inn at Manzanillo Bay which has a sick point break right outside the bungalows. Rolling out of bed and getting super fun lefts in 80 degree water all by myself first thing in the morning is all I want for xmas. About an hour north is one of the funnest surf breaks ever. Probably number one on this list just on sheer fun and lack of crowds (at least in December). After driving down a little dirt road through chickens and pigs and smiling little kids the waves are just lined up. Long rides, great vibe and the local entrepreneur Javier has set up a little beach shack with coffee, eggs, tacos and beer. Stepped on a sting ray and the women at Javi’s boiled water, picked local plants and fixed me right up. Pretty much all time awesomeness.
Uluwatu - Bali
Spring 1998 was the first time I laid my eyes on one of the most beautiful and magical lefts in the world. Beautiful because of the temple and terrain, magical because of a perfect glassy left and killer Buddhist vibe. Too bad I ignored the receding tide and ended up clipping my head tucking into a barrel and ended up flat on my back on the reef with blood and sea urchins embedded everywhere. The fever I was rocking from too many big nights in Kuda didn’t help either. But wow! What a Spot.
Leftovers - North Shore, Oahu
When I was 17 I did a summer internship in Hawaii working for a guy that had just bought the local theater chain and needed an assistant to help out. Lived right on the beach on the North Shore at the Leftovers break. Would literally role out of bed and check the surf. After my freshman year at Carnegie Mellon a 40 degree below zero winter forced me to take a leave of absence from school and head back to Hawaii. This time my job was analyzing islands in the South Pacific to see if we could buy or build movie theaters and expand the chain beyond Hawaii. Stayed in the same place and continued to rock Leftovers as much as I could. Many great waves and fond memories. Surfed with Wingnut, kicked it on the Heiau with the rest of the North Shore on Tsunami Tuesday and saw Kelly Slater utterly demolish Pipeline against Rob Machado in one of the best Pipe Finals ever. My partner in crime was Marty Givot a one armed surfer 16 years my senior who must have been the model for Spicolli. Ever seen a one armed man drive stick, drink a beer and hang out the window whistling at girls and able to surf big waves with one arm? ClassicPavones - Costa Rica
One of the longest lefts in the world. As a goofy foot, need I say more? In June, 2003 I caught one of the biggest and best swells in years. Utterly sick. It was connecting from the outer point to the boat house, probably a half mile of piping wave. Woke up the next morning and the Roxy boat was outside with some of the best female surfers in the world in the line-up ripping and doing photo shoots. Nice.
Big Dume - Malibu
Gotta give some love to the local break in my hometown - even though I rarely surf it. My parents are about a two minute walk to one of the best waves in Malibu and probably Southern California - when its hitting. Also has the benefit of not being too crowded generally.
La Punta, Zicatela Beach - Puerto Escondido, Mexico
I have been to Puerto 6 times, the first time I was sixteen and man has it changed a lot in the last 17 years. Way more hotels. Way more tourists. But it is still a gorgeous village with a killer vibe. Zicatela beach is probably the heaviest beach break in the world when it is going off. Called the Mexican Pipline it is just plain scary much of the time. However, at the end of Zicatela is the point which doesn’t catch as much of the meanness and has fun long lefts. I remember when we used to get $.40 coronas and $.40 fish tacos and sit under the palapas of the local family with nobody around…not so much any more but still beautiful Mexico, fun waves and a killer beach.
Itacare - Itacare, Brazil
I didn’t actually catch Itacare on a great swell but still had super fun beach break waves. What makes this place so sick is the Pousada Sage Point. A place that feels straight out of Swiss Family Robinson. Gorgeous bungalows built into the hill with an amazing zen buddha vibe, great food and instant access to the beach.
Ocean Beach - San Francisco
Let me put it this way. I have a love hate relationship with OB. Love gorgeous fall days with long period sets and indian summer days. Hate freezing, sharky water, gnarly riptides and one of the most brutal paddle outs in the world.
Marshalls - Malibu
Everybody needs a secret spot.
